Ok, actually it was 18 - but I'm calling it 20 (and maybe then some) in spirit. I'll explain.
Because this run wiped. me. out.
::Passes out on the floor, then gets up and continues blogging::
Ahem.
I've been having AMAZING runs lately. I've been feeling totally strong, running faster than normal with the same effort. So, today I planned my 20 miler with plenty of juice and banana, snacks for afterward, enough water, hell I even brought salt. Everything should have been perfect, except for one little thing:
I was wearing an 8 pound backpack ------ Does this seem smart to you?------ I had never worn a pack on a run before, so naturally I thought it would be best to try it out on a 20 mile run. ::Slaps forehead::
Runners, if you've never run with a backpack before, I'm going to say this with my fresh firsthand experience - 8 pounds on your back, swinging side to side a little, and up and down a lot, makes a BIG difference. My knees and ankles were killing me. I couldn't seem to move forward easily, and it only dawned on me 3 miles into the run that the pack was swinging side to side (liquid in sports bottles helping perpetuate this motion), totally throwing off my running economy. I was out of breath at a 12 minute per mile pace, whereas I'm usually at that level of fatigue at a 10-10:15 pace.
So, to make myself feel better about whimping out and not going to 20, with those numbers stated above I'm going to make a pretend estimate according to my perceived exertion level. In reality I finished 18 miles at an average of 13.3 minutes per mile = 4 hours (including some walking). If I had been running without the backpack at the same exertion rate (meaning the 10-10:15 pace), I should have run the same 18 miles in around 3 hours. So add an additional hour of running and I would have come in at 23 miles!
Ha. Don't you love my logic? So basically, I'm calling it 20 miles. :P So there. I've never actually hit the wall before, but I think I came pretty darn close today. My legs are aching and my joints are quite angry with me. Let's hope nothing is hurt too bad.
I see an ice bath in my near future. Brrr. And some chili. And maybe a nap. Maybe not in that order...
Eat. Knit. RUN. Blog.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
The 20 Miler
Nervous? Who, Me? No... I mean it... Really
Ok guys, I'm sitting in my pjs waiting for breakfast to digest a little more and getting antsy. Why you may ask?
Because I'm going to go run 20 miles today.
All week I've been totally cool with it. I was calm and collected, even looking forward to it. I caught myself thinking, "I'll just run out the road 10 miles, turn around and come back, no big."
But all week the weather was totally gorgeous. Kind of an anomaly for Juneau in the Spring, apparently. Yesterday we were at an end of the year bar-be-que (pics from that later) and it was cold and rained pretty hard on us. When I went to bed last night I could hear the wind howling outside our apartment. I went to bed thinking "I might have to run in that tomorrow..."
It's still pretty windy outside right now. No rain, yet... The temperature says it's a balmy 50 degrees though! Warm! (no really, that's warm) And the clouds look thin, meaning not thick with rain and could possible break up and give me some sun, maybe?
Ok, all this waiting is crap. I'm going to start getting ready and go, damn it. Breakfast be damned.
Wish me luck - I'll let you know how badly I'm hurting at the end - hehe.
Eat. Knit. RUN (whimper). BLOG.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Oh. My. Goodness.
I thought when I became a vegan that I had said goodbye to ice cream cakes...
BUT NOT ANYMORE!
MaggieMudd's
not only has a huge dairy free selection of soy and coconut milk based ice creams, they make ice cream cake and ship anywhere in the US. ::Bouncing in my seat::
If anyone ever wanted to know what to get me for my birthday...... ;P
EAT. Knit. Run. Blog.
Magnolia by Kim Hargreaves is Finished!
That's right folks. Well, it's been finished for awhile actually -- It's just a rare occasion that I look presentable enough to be photographed :) I'm on the go a lot.
But I have been wearing this magnificent sweater often! So often than I'm a little embarrassed and try to wear it on off days so that the people in my classes don't see that I'm wearing the same sweater over and over again. It's extremely comfy, soft, flattering - especially when I wear it with my favorite silver earrings. I have to wear it as much as possible before I go back down south where the weather will definitely not be sweater season anymore for quite some time. Tear.
So here she is!
I got to play model :P
Yes, that's snow on the ground in April. Alaska is funny like that. :P
I love this shot, except that it make it look like my hands are larger than my head!
Close up of the buttons - loves them.Modifications: I slimmed down the waist quite a bit, using the XS waist/bust sizes and the S size for the sleeves. There is a little bit of "pooching" around the shoulder where the sleeve meets (meaning it's too large for me) but it's very comfy. The body fits me perfectly, with zero ease, fitted to my exact measurements instead of loose with 3 or 4 inches of ease as in the pattern.
Also, I didn't want a huge collar, so I didn't do any of the increases to make it "flower out" -- I simply measured how many stitches I would need around and went with it. Then to minimize the bulky seam, I picked up stitches at the collar on the sweater, then grafted the open stitches on the collar ribbed piece together with the body. It turned out very nice.
When I came down for the first time in my sweater, Joe looked at me and went, "Wow!" Made me feel pretty good :) I was nervous about the sweater while I was knitting it. I've had too many disasters and disappointments, but I think my luck is turning around.
-----
Eat. KNIT. Run. Blog.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Running 17 Miles makes legs hurt
But damn it feels good to be a gangsta. Um, I mean, "Runna"
I ran 17 miles... on a treadmill. That's pretty hardcore, in my opinion hehe. Actually, maybe not. I was entertained the whole way with a tv all to myself. I watched a tv movie, a detective program, informercials, celebrity gossip, and more I'm sure. I felt really strong though. It was fantastic. My legs were getting heavy toward the end, but my heart and lungs weren't lagging. Hooray! Last year it was the other way around, where my legs were good to go, but I was out of breath (due to anemia, now fixed by taking regular iron pills). Though I'm kind of waddling around today, hehe. But I'm a runnin' machine now. The San Diego Rock'n'Roll marathon is on June 1 and I will be ready!
My 17 miler was scheduled for this weekend and I usually do my long run on Saturday (recover on Sunday) but I worked two 12 hour days in a row on Friday and Saturday, so long run was no go. I spent 12 hours both days proctoring an Engineering exam (ELSES) and sat on my butt knitting and reading - the entire time. Even the comfiest chairs get uncomfy after 12 hours. But that's a lot of good pay for us - this is going to pay for our beach house vacation!
Our school year in Juneau, Alaska is coming to a close. I'm kind of sad about it, but it's been a great year. Fantastic, in fact. But when we go to San Diego we'll be looking forward to renting a beach house for a few days or a week with our friends. I've always wanted to do that, and now that we're adults with semi-regular incomes we can finally do it!
I'm almost done with Magnolia - I meant to finish it so much sooner, but work and school get in the way sometimes. I'm sewing the final sleeve cap right now, then all that's left are the buttons! I will have pics for you soon :)
Hope you all had a great weekend :)
Eat. KNIT. RUN. BLOG.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Vegan Taco Salad
This is a dish Joe remembers from our pre-vegan days that he just couldn't get enough of. It's made with ground seitan. We opted not to put Tofutti sour cream or vegan cheese over it, but it would taste great I'm sure. This is a simple meal. We had oranges for dessert - it was a very colorful and healthful meal. And obviously as this is such a simple meal, the ingredients can be more or less to your taste :)
Serves 2
1 cup ground seitan*
2 tsp taco seasoning
2 Tbsp olive oil
4 cups fresh greens
1/3 cup olives
1/2 cup diced tomatoes (canned or fresh)
Saute the ground seitan with the oil and taco seasoning for 2 minutes.
Sprinkle all ingredients over a bed of greens. Serve from one large bowl or individually.
Enjoy!
*Seitan (Recipe adapted from Vegan Vittles)
1 1/2 cups vital wheat gluten
1/2 cup nutritional yeast
1 1/2 Tbsp Mrs. Dash garlic and herb
1 Tbsp vegan vegetable broth powder
1 cup water
1/4 cup tomato sauce
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp low sodium soy sauce
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Combine all dry ingredients and wet separately, then combine all ingredients until completely mixed. The seitan dough should be tough and very elastic/rubbery. Let the dough rest a few minutes before pressing and stretching it out to be about 1/2 inch thick. Place onto an oiled baking sheet.
Bake for 30 minutes.
After taking it out of the oven, place the seitan into a sealed container, or cover it with a large bowl, while it cools to retain its moisture.
Once cool, tear the seitan into chunks and grind it up in a food processor. Don't let the chunks get too small; this should resemble big ground beef chunks.
Seitan keeps in the fridge for about a week and a couple months in the freezer.
EAT. Knit. Run. Blog.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Looking For TheKnitteur.com?
I've moved most of the content from my old site to this web page. Please feel free to take a look around!
10k baby, yeah!
I ran my first 10k over the weekend! Hoorah! I think I'm doing my races backwards - I've already done a marathon, isn't it supposed to be the other way around? :P
Me in front of the glacier before the race
Johanna workin' it! hee hee
Koolhaas hat sighting!
Bundled up and ready to go!
Ha, I tell you, we're two of a kind - I'm so glad I found someone as goofy as me up here :)There were a lot of people there - I had no idea there were so many runners in Juneau.
Johanna and I ran it way too fast and it was great. Apparently the runners in Juneau are all incredibly fast and we tried to keep up. Oops.
We ended up limping and crawling the final mile to the finish. Ha, not really, but it felt like it. DANG starting out fast sapped our energy so fast. So while there are lots of pics of us being excited before the race, there aren't any afterward.
In fact, we were supposed to finish with 5 extra miles to complete our long run for the weekend - but we went shopping instead. We're dedicated I tell you. But I got a really cute jacket :)
Today I only ran 3 miles and it was a total breeze. Got 17 miles this weekend, wish me luck! I think Johanna might accompany on the bike, we'll see :)
Eat. Knit. RUN. Blog.
Video Knitting Instructions, My First Scarf
As part of a site move, I'm taking everything from TheKnitteur.com and putting it on TheRunningYarn.com. I have to reformat the actual videos for this page, but they'll be back soon!
The scarf is probably the most common place to start for beginning knitters because it's easy to knit and dfficult to mess up. Also, the design is versatile; you get to decide how wide or how long you want it. This particular scarf is knit in garter stitch, so every row uses the knit stitch and the resulting scarf will lay flat.
All of the instructions on this page are designed to make sense on their own, without the requirement of previous experience or tiresome flipping between pages. We hope you find them useful.
Casting On
The beginning of any project must begin with casting on stitches with which to work. The cast on row is its own separate row; once this row is on the needle you can begin to knit row 1.
The First Few Rows
Begin knitting row one using knit stitches for every stitch. At the end of every row you will turn your work around and do the exact same thing to the next row, every stitch is a knit stitch. You'll keep doing this until the scarf is as long as you want it to be.
The Last Few Rows
This video demonstrates knitting the last two rows of the scarf before the bind off row. You may have already knitted these. In that case, please skip ahead to the Binding Off video.
Binding Off
This is the last row of the scarf that will close the loops and take them off of the needle. Follow the instructions for binding off, cut your yarn, knot it, and sew it in to hide the tail.
Congratulations on completing your first scarf!
More Information
You've just made a scarf! If you're interested in a fancier scarf project, click the link to go to the Luxurious Eyelash Scarf Pattern.
Video Knitting Instructions, My First Hat
As part of a site move, I'm taking everything from TheKnitteur.com and putting it on TheRunningYarn.com. I have to reformat the actual videos for this page, but they'll be back soon!
You've mastered the knit stitch and you're itching for something more challenging. Well look no further because this hat is the next step in beginning knitting. The videos take you through step by step to give you a clear idea of what's going on.
All of the instructions on this page are designed to make sense on their own, without the requirement of previous experience or tiresome flipping between pages. We hope you find them useful.
These videos are meant to accompany the Simple Pinwheel Beanie Pattern. Click the link to go to the pattern, but all instructions are also included on this page.
Casting On
It's the inevitable beginning to any project. You will be using a size 10 circular needle. When reading patterns, the cast on row is always row zero, not row 1.
To begin, cast on 84 stitches. Once you've casted on all stitches, be very careful to make sure the cast on row is not twisted before you join the ends together. Once the ends are joined you can begin knitting the hat in the round.
Knitting the Ribbed Brim and Body
The brim of this hat is in two by two ribbing. That means you alternate knitting two stitches and purling two stitches. Knit 4 rounds of the two by two ribbing.
Once the brim rounds are complete you immediately begin on the body of the hat. Knit using only knit stitches for 20 more rounds. Knitting in the round is great because it's all knit stitches coiled on one another. All you have to do is start the knit stitch and keep going!
Beginning the Decreases
There's a point in every hat's life, when changes must be made if it is to become a hat with a curved top. The body stitches must be decreased to fit the shape of your head. Decreases aren't always just functional; sometimes the decrease stitches can make pretty patterns too! In this case: the pinwheel.
You have to set up your markers so you don't have to count stitches for the rest of the hat. For the next round, round 21, you will knit 19 stitches, place a marker on the needle, then knit the next two stitches togeher.
For rounds 22-33 you will continue to knit two stitches together before every marker. Decrease stitches keep going to the very end right before binding off.
Switching to Double Pointed Needles
The circumference of the hat cannot be less than the circumference of your circular needles. Once you decrease to that point you'll notice the stitches being very tight on the needles. When the stitches won't move easily you have to switch to double pointed needles to finish.
Decreasing with Double Pointed Needles
Though knitting on three needles is trickier to manage at first, decreasing on them is just the same as decreasing with a circular needle. Stitches are divided onto three needles and a fourth knits them.
If you haven't finished the decreases in rows 22-33, finish them now. For the final rounds of the hat, rounds 34-36, you will knit two together twice before every marker.
Finishing the Hat at the Top
Almost finished! Once the length is complete and only a few stitches remain on the needles, cut the yarn leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Thread that cut tail onto a seaming/tapestry needle and thread the needle into the loops of the remaining stitches. Pull the tail tight to close hole and knot the yarn to keep it closed. Turn the hat inside out and sew the tail into the inside of the crown to hide your work.
Finishing the Hat at the Brim
Sew the tail from the cast on row into the inside of the brim to hide your work. Congratulations! You've made a hat!
Video Knitting Instructions - Basic Stitches
As part of a site move, I'm taking everything from TheKnitteur.com and putting it on TheRunningYarn.com. I have to reformat the actual videos for this page, but they'll be back soon!
Casting On(CO): Part 1 - Cast on Knot
Casting on is a vital part of the knitting process; one cannot begin a project without stitches to knit! There are various ways of casting on stitches and this is one of the most common ways to do so. It starts with the sliding knot, and this becomes the first stitch.
Casting On(CO): Part 2 - Cast on Stitch
The cast on stitch is the second step of the casting on process. Stitches are knit and then slipped back onto the left needle, increasing the number of stitches on the needle. The knitting patterns with which you will work will always tell yu how many stitches to cast on(CO) to begin.
Basic Knit Stitch (K)
This is the most basic stitch and is often the foundation for other stitches. The knit(K) stitch is most often performed on the front side, or right side(RS), of the piece. Stitches are knitted onto the right needle, then the needle is turned around and placed back into the left hand. This is continued until you decide to stop, ot until the pattern you are following directs you to do so.
Purl Stitch(P)
Purl(P) stitch is most often performed on the back side, or wrong side(WS), of the piece. Stitches begin on the left needle and are knitted with the purl stitch onto the right needle.
Stockinette Stitch(St st)
This is actually a series of stitches to create a certain look and texture to the piece. In this instance, the front side, or right side (RS), is flat and all knit stitches; the back side, or wrong side(WS), is bumpy and all purl stitches. It is a perfect balance since the back of a knit stitch is a purl, and the back of a purl stitch is a knit stitch. Knit all stitches on the front side and purl all stitches on the backside.
Decrease: Knit Two Together(K2TOG)
This is a very common decrease stitch. Its name describes exactly how the stitch is made: two stitches on the left needle are knitted at the same time as if they are one stitch. The result is one new stitch made, having decreased one stitch.
Decrease: Slip Slip Knit(SSK)
Slip slip knit is another decrease stitch. Two stitches are slipped knitwise onto the right needle. Knitwise means the needle is inserted into the left front of the stitch before it is slipped. Once the two stitches are on the right needle, the left needle is inserted into the front left of both stitches at once as if they were one stitch. Then it is followed through by finishing like a knit stitch.
Binding Off(BO): Part 1
Binding off is another essential part of any knitting project. The bind off row is separate from the number of rows called for in a pattern, for example: if a pattern calls for 50 rows, one would knit 50 rows, and then the bind off row would be row 51.
Binding Off(BO): Part 2
It is important to complete this step correctly, or your piece can unravel itself ruining hours of work! The last stitch is held open once the piece is taken off the needles. The tail is then cut with at least six inches. The tail is then inserted into the loop and tightened, making a knot. Do not cut the tail anymore or else the end will wiggle itself free of the knot.
Friday, April 4, 2008
My patterns are moving here
Just a heads up, my old website is getting the ol' shutdown. It was a nice idea :) So all of my original patterns that were posted there are finding a new home over here. So the blog will be bombarded with the pattern posts for a little while.
Hope you like 'em :)
Eat. KNIT. Run. BLOG.
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Punk Rock Corset Gloves - Free Pattern
The perfect accessory for your punk rock lifestyle. I dreamed up these gloves at a concert where the lead singer was wearing regular striped arm-warmers in grey and black. I thought, How cool! But I can do better...
They are knit straight with shaping on both sides for the wrist, then finished with an applied i-cord for either side of the "corset" with extra spaces for the lacing holes. Rock on friends.
Level: Intermediate to Advanced
Size: Fits most adults
Length: 11 inches
Width (at ends): 6 inches
Width (at middle): 4 inches
MC = Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4 ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]
CC = Red Heart Soft Yarn [100% acrylic; worsted weight; 4 ply; 256 yds per 140g per skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Black
[CC] Red
Needles:
1 set US #8/ 5 mm straight needles
1 set US #8/ 5 mm double-point needles
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches St st
Pattern Notes:
The sizing for this pattern allows for 1-2 inches of space where the laces go over bare skin (that and it stretches nicely to form fit your arm). So when the measurement above says 6 inches, it will fit a hand that is 8 or 9 inches around the knuckles.
St st stripes will always be four rows to a color.
The applied i-cord is knit with spaces in order to lace up the gloves. There are no spaces in the cord where the thumbs go. The knitted portions of the border i-cord bands that don't use picked up stitches form arches which will be your lacing holes.
Read this before you begin:
ssk = slip slip knit.
k2tog = knit two together.
sl = slip stitch. psso = pass slipped stitch over.
knit one from body = knit the next stitch on the needle holding picked up stitches.
sldpn = Slide stitches to opposite end of dpn, RS facing, don't turn to face WS. (Makes i-cord)
MC = main color (black), CC = contrasting color (red)
Body Begin:
CO 26 st in MC.
Row 1 [RS]: *[k1, p1] repeat to end.
Row 2 [WS]: *[p1, k1] repeat to end. [Seed stitch]
Repeat rows 1 and 2 four more times [Six rows of seed stitch total]
Row 7[RS]: Change color to CC. k to end of row.
Row 8[WS]: p to end of row.
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 9: k
Row 11: Change color to MC. k to end of row.
Row 13: k
Body Decreases:
Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k1, ssk, k 20 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 2[WS]: p
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k1, ssk, k 18 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 7: k
Row 9: Change color to CC. k1, ssk, k 16 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 11: k
Row 13: Change color to MC. k1, ssk, k 14 st, k2tog, k1.
Row 15: k
Body Middle:
Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k to end of row.
Row 2[WS]: p
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k to end of row.
Row 7: k
Repeat rows 1-8 one more time [4 stripes over 16 rows knit]
Body Increases:
Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k1, kfb, k 14 st, kfb, k1.
Row 2[WS]: p
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k1, kfb, k 16 st, kfb, k1.
Row 7: k
Row 9: Change color to CC. k1, kfb, k 18 st, kfb, k1.
Row 11: k
Row 13: Change color to MC. k1, kfb, k 20 st, kfb, k1.
Row 15: k
Body Finish:
Row 1[RS]: Change color to CC. k to end of row.
Row 2[WS]: p to end of row.
Continue to p every WS row.
Row 3: k
Row 5: Change color to MC. k
Row 6 [WS]: *[k1, p1] repeat to end.
Row 7 [RS]: *[p1, k1] repeat to end. [Seed stitch]
Repeat rows 6 and 7 four more times [Six rows of seed stitch total]
BO.
Finishing (Body):
Cut yarns leaving at least 6 inch tail. Thread MC yarn onto tapestry needle and sew in tail on WS.
Applied I-Cord Trim [Left Border]:
(See chart for border placement)
With WS facing, begin to pick up stitches. You will begin at row 1 on chart.
Follow chart pattern from bottom to top.
pu 1, skip one st, *[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * to thumb opening [34 stitches on needle]
pu 16 st, skip one st
*[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * to last 2 st, pu 2. [58 stitches on needle]
Turn so RS is facing
CO 2 st on dpn.
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 2: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 3: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 4: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 7: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 8: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 9: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 5-9, one more time [2 times total, 8 stitches on needle]
Begin Thumb portion:
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Slide stitches to opposite end of dpn.
Repeat Row 1, 15 more times [16 rows total]
To the end:
Row 1: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 2: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 3: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 4: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 7: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 3-7 ten more times [11 times total]
Last stitch on body: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso.
BO stitches.
Cut yarn and sew in tail.
Applied I-Cord Trim [Right Border]:
(See chart for border placement)
With WS facing, begin to pick up stitches. You will begin at row 73 on chart.
Follow chart pattern from top to bottom.
pu 2, skip one st, *[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * two times to thumb opening [8 stitches on needle]
pu 16 st, skip one st
*[pu 3 st, skip one st], repeat from * to last st, pu 1. [58 stitches on needle]
Turn so RS is facing
CO 2 st on dpn.
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 2: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 3: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 4: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 7: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 8: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 4-8 ten more times [total of 11 times]
Begin Thumb portion:
Row 1: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Slide stitches to opposite end of dpn.
Repeat Row 1, 15 more times [16 rows total]
To the end:
Row 1: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 2: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Row 3: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 4: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 5: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 6: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn
Row 7: RS stil facing, k2. Sldpn.
Repeat rows 3-7 one more time
Row 13: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
Row 14: k1, sl 1, k1 from body, psso. Sldpn.
BO stitches.
Cut yarn and sew in tail.
Finishing (Laces):
Measure 1 piece of MC yarn 36 inches long (3 feet). Thread onto seaming needle and thread into opening you have made in the applied i-cord border. Alternate like you're lacing shoe laces (As shown in pictures).
Pattern (First Half)
Pattern (Second Half)
Video Instructions! (Added June 22, 2008)
Part 1 - Picking up stitches along the glove edge (follow the chart and watch where the spaces go)
Part 2 - Picking Up stitches for the thumb portion
Part 3 - Knitting on the applied i-cord with spaces for lacing holes.
Hope these videos help!
Big Ribs Beanie - Free Pattern
I came up with this hat when I was still getting presents together three weeks before Christmas. It's available in four sizes, and knits up SO quick. Plus, it's a great stash/leftover yarn project. You put three or four strands of yarn together and knit them like they're one bulky strand of yarn. Huge stitches, meaning fewer to knit overall.
The small one is made of four strands of varying blue yarns; the bigger one is 2 strands of black and 1 strand of grey, then 2 black and 1 red for the color band.
Level: Beginner to Intermediate
Sizes:
S [M, L, XL]
Circumference: 17 [20, 22, 24] inches
Height: 7 [8, 9, 10] inches
Yarns:
Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4 ply; 315 yd per 170g skein];
3 or 4 strands, colors are up to you.
1 set US #10 / 5 mm double-point needles
8 [11, 12, 13] stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge:
13 sts/17 rows = 4 inches ribbed
Pattern Notes:
Knitting with three or four strands can make stitches a little tough to knit. The gauge is the same with three or four strands on size 10 needles. Color possibilities are endless for this project.
PM = place marker. k2tog = knit two together. For the small hat [size S, for a four year old] in the pictures, four strands of yarn were used in four variation colors of blue. The larger hat [size L, for a 16 year old] in the pictures uses three strands of yarn, 2 black and 1 grey - then for the band of color, 2 strands of black and 1 red.
Body:
CO 46 [66, 72, 78] st with 3 or 4 strands of yarn held together.
Round 1: Join without twisting and begin to knit 1x1 rib in the round. *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1x1 rib for 5.5 [6.25, 7, 7.5] inches or about 22 [26, 28, 30] rounds. (Measurements may vary depending on personal gauge).
Body Decreases:
Round 1: Place 8 [11, 12, 13] markers. *p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, PM, repeat from *to end of round.
Round 2: Continue to knit in 1x1 rib, k2tog before every marker.
Round 3: Knit 1 round 1x1 rib. [no decreases this round]
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until 4 stitches remain.
Finishing:
Cut yarns leaving at least 6 inch tails. Thread yarn onto tapestry needle and thread into remaining stitch loops, taking stitches off needles. Pull yarn tight to close hole and tie with a knot. Thread into the inside of the hat and sew in tail.
Eat. KNIT. Run. Blog.
Pretty Punk Blanket - Free Pattern
What else says "pretty" and "punk" better than hot pink and skulls? This blanket is knit in five long strips, like scarves, then seamed together at the end. It's a time-saving technique that eliminates seaming individual squares one by one.
Level: Beginner to Intermediate
Width: 5 feet
Length: 7 feet
Yarns:
Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]
[MC] Black -- 6 skeins
[C1] Watermelon -- 5 skeins
[C2] Limelight -- 1 skein
[C3] Blue Mint -- 1 skein
**[Names of colors have been recently edited to be corrected. Also, I had listed the number of skeins for each color as "1 skein each color" which is also incorrect and changed. I don't remember exactly how many skeins and the numbers listed above may not be accurate -- if you make this blanket, could you please help me out and comment with the number of skeins you used? Thanks -- Jenny]**
Needles:
1 24-inch US #9 / 5.5 mm circular or straight needles
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 13 st/ 17 rows = 4 inches
Pattern Notes:
Alternate black and pink rows for every strip (see picture). Be sure to count rows carefully or the squares won't match up when you seam them together. The skull chart below represents the entire square. Alternate colors as directed and as shown in the pictures.
Strip 1:
CO 40 st in MC
Rows 1-50: k St st.
Rows 51-100: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 101-150: Change color to MC. k St st.
Repeat rows 51-150 2 more times [3 times total]
BO stitches. [350 rows total in strip; 7 squares knitted]
Strip 2:
CO 40 st in C1
Rows 1-50: k St st.
Rows 51-100: Change color to MC. k St st.
Rows 101-150: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 151-200: Pattern square. Change color to MC. Use C2 for skull in patt.
Rows 201-250: Change color to MC. k St st.
Rows 251-300: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 301-350: Change color to MC. k St st.
BO stitches.
Strip 3:
CO 40 st in MC
Rows 1-50: k St st.
Rows 51-100: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 101-150: Pattern Square. Change color to MC. Use C3 for skull in patt.
Rows 151-200: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 201-250: Pattern Square. Change color to MC. Use C3 for skull in patt.
Rows 251-300: Change color to C1. k St st.
Rows 301-350: Change color to MC. k St st.
BO stitches.
Repeat Strip 2
Strip 5:
Repeat Strip 1
I feel like a pioneer woman sewing this blanket together... I dunno :)
Finishing:
Block the strips well. Tie strips together at the corners of squares as a guide when seaming. Seam all strips together in the order they were knitted, or as shown in the picture. Sew in all tails.
[Optional] Sew a backing onto the blanket for extra warmth (not shown).
Comfy Raglan Sweater - Free Pattern
[A small typo in the yolk instructions was corrected recently, so if you printed this pattern out previously, you'll need a copy of the new version - Thanks! Jenny]
This is a snuggly sweater good for lounging around or going out. It's knit in traditional, top-down, raglan style and it's knit in one piece, meaning no seaming! Also, the whole sweater is knit in the round, meaning no turning your work back and forth, just row upon row of soothing stitches.
Level: Beginner to Intermediate
Sizes:
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
Bust: 28 [32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length: 22 [22.5, 23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27] inches
Upper arm width: 11 [12, 13, 13.5, 14, 15, 16, 17] inches
Yarn:
Jo-Ann Sensations Rainbow Boucle [88% acrylic, 12% nylon; 853 yd per 312g skein]; 1 skein
Needles:
1 24-inch or 29-inch US #8 / 5 mm circular needles
1 set US #8 / 5 mm double-pointed needles
4 stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 13 st/ 24 rows = 4 inches
Pattern Notes:
Start knitting from the collar and work your way down to the hem. When putting sleeve stitches on holders, I found pieces of waste yarn to work perfectly because you can tie them up tight and they won't get in the way like metal or plastic holders can. PM = place maker. kfb = knit through front and back of loop (increase).
Yolk:
CO 72 [76, 80, 84, 88, 88, 92, 96] st loosely.
Round 1: *k 23 [26, 29, 30, 31, 33, 36, 39] st, PM, k 13 [12, 11, 12, 13, 11, 10, 9], PM, Repeat from * to end [Two repetitions, 4 markers]
Round 2: slip marker, kfb, *k to next marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, repeat from * to last stitch (previously last two stitches, corrected on 2-9-09) before first marker, kfb.
Round 3: k
Round 4: k
Repeat rows 2, 3, and 4: 11 [13, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23] times total. 88 [104, 120, 128, 136, 152, 168, 184] increased stitches. Total stitches on needles: 160 [180, 200, 212, 224, 240, 260, 280].
Next Round: k 7 [6, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1, 3] rounds.
Next Round: k to first sleeve, remove sleeve stitches between markers and put them onto stitch holders. 35 [38, 41, 44, 47, 49, 52, 55] stitches per sleeve.
Repeat for second sleeve. Only body stitches on needles now. 90 [104, 118, 124, 130, 142, 156, 170] stitches on needles.
Body:
K for 81 [81, 84, 87, 87, 93, 96, 96] rounds, or until body reaches 16.5 [16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 19, 20, 20] inches.
Hem:
K 1x1 rib for 18 [18, 18, 18, 21, 21, 24, 24] rounds, or until hem reaches 3 [3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4] inches.
BO stitches loosely.
Sleeves [Make 2]:
Take stitches off holder and place onto dpns.
Round 1: Beginning next to body, PM, k2tog, k to end.
Next Round: K 9 [10, 9, 8, 8, 7, 7, 7] more rounds. Repeat these 10 [11, 10, 9, 9, 8, 8, 8] rounds for 9 [9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14, 15] times total.
Next Round: K 6 [9, 3, 9, 4, 10, 10, 3] rounds, or until sleeve reaches 16 [16.5, 17, 17.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19]inches from underarm.
Sleeve Cuffs:
K 1x1 rib for 12 [12, 12, 12, 15, 15, 18, 18] rounds, or until cuff reaches 2 [2, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3] inches.
BO stitches loosely.
Finishing:
Sew in all tails. Crochet a chain around neck if desired. Sew up any holes in the underarms. No seaming! It's done!
Snow Bear Fair Isle Hat - Free Pattern
This hat was inspired by a friend who requested a "cutesy hat with ears." Adding ears to a hat pretty much guarantees cuteness. I was just getting into fair isle knitting when I designed this and couldn't resist adding that element as well. Make it for a kid, or for your own "inner child."
Level: Intermediate
Size:
XXS, XS (Kid sizes) [S, M, L] (Adult Sizes)
Circumference: 18, 20 [22, 24, 26] inches
Height: 7.5, 7.5 [8.5, 8.5, 9.5] inches
Yarn:
Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Grey
[CC] White
Needles:
1 16-inch US #5 / 3.75 mm circular needle
1 set US #5 / 3.75 mm double-point needles
9, 10, [11, 12, 13] stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 24 sts/30 rows = 4 inches
Pattern Notes:
Fair isle makes things extra warm and snuggly, but it also causes pieces to lose their stretch. What you see is what you get. Make sure you gauge your circumference accurately because there won't be much stretch room at all. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles.
There will be 18, 20 [22, 24, 26] repetitions of pattern A around the hat and 5, 5 [6, 6, 7] repetitions of pattern A up the hat. For the crown, there will be 9, 10, [11, 12, 13] reps of pattern B around
MC = main color (grey), CC = contrasting color (white), PM = place marker.
Body:
CO 108, 120 [132, 144, 156] st.
Rounds 1-8: Knit 2x2 rib.
Round 9: Beg patt A. Cont for 30, 30 [36, 36, 42] rounds of patt.
Rounds 44-51: Switch to dpns. Place 9, 10 [11, 12, 13] markers before stitches shown in red in patt B. Begin patt B. K2tog before every marker except for the last row of patt. [7 dec rounds - 8 rounds total]
Rounds 52-58: Remove every other marker, leaving 5, 5 [6, 6, 7] on needles. K2tog before every marker [7 rounds]
Rounds 59: k2tog every 12 st. [1 round]
Rounds 60: k2tog for all st, until 8 st remain.
Finishing (Body):
Cut yarn leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Thread onto seaming needle. Take stitches off knitting needles, thread seaming needle into stitch loops. Pull tight to close hole. Knot yarn. Turn hat inside out to sew in tails.
Ears [Make 2] (Same for all hat sizes):
CO 10 st.
Rounds 1-6: k St st
Round 7 [RS]: SSK, knit to last two stitches, k2tog
Round 8 [WS]: p
Continue to p all WS rows.
Rounds 9 and 11: SSK, k to last two st, k2tog [4 st on needles]
Round 13: k2tog, k2tog [2 st on needles]
Round 15: kfb, kfb [4 st on needles]
Rounds 17, 19, and 21: kfb, k to last to st, kfb [10 st on needles]
Round 15: kfb, kfb [4 st on needles]
Rounds 23-28: k St st
BO all stitches.
Finishing (Ears)
Pattern A
Pattern B
Juneau Fair Isle Hat - Free Pattern
This hat was inspired by the beautiful land and seascapes of Juneau, Alaska. While spending time there as winter approached, I realized quickly that my ears were very cold in normal beanie hats; I was desperate for something thick to snuggle my ears! Thus, the Juneau hat was born. The fair isle pattern reflects the mountainous islands in the bay, or sound, with the mountain sides ending at the ocean shore. The ear flaps represent one shore, looking over waves, then across to another mountain across the bay.
Level: Intermediate to Advanced
Size: Fits most adultsCircumference: 24 inches
Height (brim to top): 8 inches
Height (ear flap tip to top): 13 inches
Yarns:
MC = Caron One Pound [100% acrylic; worsted weight; 4 ply; 453 g per skein]
CC = Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4 ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Black
[CC] Denim blue
Needles:
1 16-inch US #8 / 5 mm circular needle
1 set US #8 / 5 mm double-point needles
7 stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 22 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in pattern
Pattern Notes:
Fair isle makes things extra warm and snuggly, but it also causes pieces to lose their stretch. What you see is what you get. Make sure you gauge your circumference accurately because there won't be much stretch room at all. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles.
PM = place marker. psso = pass slipped stitch over. MC = main color (black), CC = contrasting color (denim blue)
Ear Flaps (Make 2)
CO 3 st.
Row 1 [RS]: Beg patt 1. K 3.
Row 2 [WS]: p 3.
Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb in patt.
Row 4: p
Continue to p every even [WS] row
Continue in chart ending on WS row 24
Leave stitches on the needle, or place on stitch holders. Set aside.
Body
CO 35 st, place 25 st from ear flap onto circular needle, CO 35 st, place 25 st from ear flap onto circular needle. [120 st total]
Rounds 1-2: k 2 rounds in MC.
Rounds 3-5: Work 1 rep of Patt 2. [3 rounds]
Rounds 6-7: k 2 rounds in MC.
Rounds 8-31: Work 2 reps of Patt 3. [24 rounds]
Round 32: k 1 round in MC.
Round 33: Set up 7 markers for decreases. *k 17, PM, repeat from * six times, k 15, k2tog, PM.
Body Decreases:
Follow chart for Patt 4.
Rounds 1-5: *k to two stitches before marker, k2tog, repeat from * for 5 rounds.
Rounds 6-10: *k to four stitches before marker, k2tog, k2tog, repeat from * for 5 rounds.
Round 11: *k2tog before marker, repeat from * to end. [1 round]
Finishing (Body):
Cut yarns leaving at least 6 inch tails. Thread MC yarn onto tapestry needle and thread into remaining stitch lops, taking stitches off needles. Pull yarn tight to close hole and tie with a knot. Thread into the inside of the hat and sew in tail.
Applied I-Cord Trim
Pick up 25 st along one side of ear flap in CC. Place all stitches onto circular needle.
Continue and pick up 35 st along brim of the body.
Continue and pick up 25 st along side of earflap.
Repeat all for the second half of hat. [170 st picked up]
RS facing out, begin on the right side of an ear flap.
Begin I-Cord: Take out two size 8 dpns. Without breaking yarn from picked up stitches on circular needles, CO 3 st onto dpns.
*On dpns k 2, sl 1, k1 off circular needle onto dpn, psso. Slide stitches to end of dpn. Repeat from * to the next ear flap tip.
To bend I-cord around the ear flap tip: *On dpn k 2, sl 1, knit into the same stitch off circular needle from the previous rep, psso. Repeat from * four times, knitting into the same stitch at the tip of the ear flap, four times.
Repeat all for second half of hat.
BO I-Cord stitches.
Cut yarn and seam ends of I-Cord together. Sew in tail.
Finishing (Tassels):
Measure 6 strips of CC yarn 14 inches long. Thread onto seaming needle and pass through tip of ear flap (or use crochet hook to pull threads through).
Pull yarn half way through. Divide front and back strips into three sections of two strands. Braid for 6 inches. Tie ends into one big knot.
Repeat for second ear flap.
Line up braids and make sure they're even. Trim tassels evenly.
Pattern 1
Pattern 2
Pattern 3
Pattern 4
Panda Ski Mask - Free Pattern
This is the perfect accessory for the mischief-maker in your life, even if that person is you! When wearing this cuddly face warmer on the ski slopes, no one will mistake you for someone else. Great for costumes parties or for every day use, whichever you prefer.
Level: Intermediate
Size: Fits most adults
Circumference (unstretched): 20 inches
Length (Short): 17.5 inches (shown in picture)
Length (Long): 21.5 inches
Yarns:
Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] White
[CC] Black
Needles:
1 16-inch US #9 / 6 mm circular needle
1 set US #9 / 6 mm double-pointed needles
6 stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 17 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in pattern
Pattern Notes:
There are two lengths for this mask. The short version, shown in the picture, ends just below the chin to be used as a casual mask. The longer version covers the entire neck to keep warm. PM = place marker. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles. MC = main color. CC = contrasting color.
Lower Mask:
CO 80 st in MC.
[Short length] Rounds 1-10: Knit 1x1 rib for 10 rounds
[Long Length] Rounds 1-30: Knit 1x1 rib for 30 rounds
Next Round: k 10 rounds.
Next Round: K 32 st, PM, begin row 1 of patt, PM at end of patt, k to end.
Continue patt between markers.
Eye Holes:
Row 52 of patt: K to marker, k 3 in patt, BO 6 st, k 5 in patt, BO 6 st, continue in patt to marker, k to end.
Continue to knit patt between markers. Do not carry yarn across eye hole openings; tie on new yarn to make nose bridge between eye holes.
Row 56 of patt: k to marker, k 3 in patt, CO 6 st, k 5 in patt, CO 6 st, continue in patt to marker, k to end.
Upper Mask:
Continue to end of patt.
Rounds 1-16: K in MC
Round 17: * k 13, PM, repeat from * to end [place 6 markers total]
Round 18: k2tog before every marker, k to end. [6 dec]
Round 19: k
Rounds 20-36: Repeat rounds 18 and 19, 8 times [16 rounds total]
Rounds 37-38: k2tog twice before every marker for 2 rounds [24 dec]
Finishing (Mask):
Cut yarn leaving at least 6 inch tail. Thread onto seaming needle. Thread seaming needle into remaining stitch loops and take off knitting needles. Pull tight to close hole. Knot yarn. Turn hat inside out to sew in all tails.
Ears [Make 2]:
CO 18 st.
Row 1-8: k St st
Row 9 [RS]: SSK, k to last two st, k2tog
Row 10 [WS]: p
Continue to p all WS rows.
Row 11 and 13: SSK, SSK k to last four st, k2tog, k2tog [8 st on needles]
Row 15: SSK, SSK, k2tog, k2tog [4 st on needles]
Row 17: kfb four times [8 st on needles]
Row 19 and 21: kfb, kfb, k to last to two st, kfb, kfb [16 st on needles]
Rows 23: kfb, k to last st, kfb
Rows 25-32: k St st
BO all stitches.
Finishing (Ears):
Fold ear piece in half, WS facing out. Sew up sides. Turn RS out. Sew both ears onto body of hat as shown in the picture.
Simple Pinwheel Beanie
Hats are great. I still love to make them. Instant gratification projects :) The basic beanie is the next step up from a scarf for beginners. The very first thing I made as a novice knitter was a hat not unlike this one. Even though it's not too hard, I was so pleased with myself making a fitted wearable item; I think it was all the "fancy decreasing" and knitting in the round. The hat gets its "pinwheel" name from the pattern the decreases make on top. This hat is meant to fit snugly and can be embellished with little stars or whatever you can dream up.
Level: Beginner
Size: Fits most adults
Circumference: 24 inches
Height: 8.25 inches
Yarn: Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein; Grey
Needles:
1 16-inch US #10 / 6 mm circular needle
1 set US #10 / 6 mm double-point needles
4 stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 16 sts/22 rows = 4 inches in pattern
Pattern Notes:
PM = place marker. Switch to double pointed needles when stitches get too tight on the circular needles.
Body
CO 84 st.
Rounds 1-4: Knit 2x2 rib.
Rounds 5-24: k [20 rounds] [24 rounds knit total]
Decreases:
Rounds 25-37: *k 19, k2tog, PM, repeat from * to end. Continue to k2tog before every marker [4 markers placed; 13 decrease rounds worked, including the first] [32 stitches on needle after decreases]
Round 38: k2tog before every marker. [16 stitches left on needle]
Round 39: k2tog before every marker. [8 stitches left on needle]
Round 40: k2tog before every marker. [4 stitches left on needle]
Finishing:
Cut yarn leaving at least 6 inch tail. Thread onto seaming needle. Take stitches off knitting needles, thread seaming needle into stitch loops. Pull tight to close hole. Knot yarn. Turn hat inside out to sew in tails.
Embellishment (Optional):
Sew star pattern onto hat using white yarn. Or sew on any other embellishment with whatever color yarn that pleases you.
Lacy Waves Scarf - Free Pattern
This is a variation of the "feather and fan" stitch pattern. It may look delicate but it's still a warm scarf. Embellish with tassels if you like; I left it off on mine because I love the pointed tips at the ends.
Level: Intermediate
Length: 72 inches; 6 feet
Yarn: Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; worsted weight 4ply; 315 yd per 170g skein]; 1 skein each color; Grey
Needles:
1 set of US #11 / 8 mm straight needles
Tapestry needle
Gauge: 16 sts/22 rows = 4 inches in pattern
Pattern Notes:
k2tog = knit two together (decrease); yo = yarn over (increase)
Body:
CO 40 st.
Row 1: k2, *(k2tog) 3 times, (yo, k1) 6 times, (k2tog) 3 times, rep from * to end, k2
Row 2: k2, p to last two stitches, k2
Repeat these two rows until the scarf is 6 feet long, or however long you want it.
BO stitches.
Finishing:
Cut yarn leaving at least 6 inch tail. Sew in tails.
Luxurious Eyelash Scarf
This scarf may look difficult but it's really so simple to knit. The fancy eyelash yarn hides the fact that it is a basic garter stitch scarf! Every row is knitted the same. You can knit up the scarf using different needle sizes, we have it shown knitted with a size 8 needle for a dense and full look. Using a size 13 will make the scarf lacier in appearance because the stitches will be larger.
Level: Beginner
Size:
Width: 4 inches (unstretched)
Length: 4 feet long (as shown)
Yarn: Black Eyelash yarn [100% acrylic; 70 yd per 50g ball]; 3 balls
Needles: 1 set US # 8/ 5mm straight needles OR 1 set US #13/ 9 mm straight needles
Gauge: 20st/28 rows = 4 inches (US #8/ 5mm needles)
OR 10 st/ 16 rows = 4 inches (US #13/ 9mm needles)
Pattern Notes:
The scarf in the pictures is shown knitted with size 8 needles for a dense and full look.
Use size 13 needles to make the scarf lacier in appearance. Knitting with bigger needles but maintaining the same width means less stitches and will knit up faster.
For a Thick Scarf:
Use US #8/ 5 mm needles.
CO 20 st.
K every row (Garter stitch).
Knit until scarf reaches about four feet long.
BO stitches and sew in tails.
For a Lacier Scarf:
Use US #13/ 9 mm needles.
CO 10 st.
K every row (Garter stitch).
Knit until scarf reaches about four feet long.
BO stitches and sew in tails.
Vegan Oatmeal Spice Muffins
Welcome to another edition of my vegan recipe cook-blog-book. I am particularly fond of this muffin. It has been in the works since I became vegan. It started with me trying to vegan-ize spice cake and eventually turned itself into a muffin once I realized I only had a muffin tin and no cake pan :)
I wrap these in plastic wrap and freeze them then eat them at my leisure. They freeze really well - I couldn't tell you for how long because they're always eaten up in my house within a week. Cute little snacks all wrapped up that are thawed and ready a couple hours later at school when I get hungry. And they're a complete protein with the peanut butter and wheat flour and oats - well, and you have the tofu too - protein all around! :)
You may notice that I have two egg-replacing binding ingredients in here - both ground flax seed and blended tofu. There is a method, I swear. Through a series of many trials and errors, I have found that these two work amazingly well in bready baked goods - as well as cookies that you want soft and a little cakey. The flax lends a bit of earthy flavor (so I find it doesn't work so well in chocolate-y things) and binds the muffin together, while the tofu also binds but lends it's moisture. I find it a perfect replacement for the egg, which bind, moistens AND leavens. Sheesh.
For a less sugary muffin, replace the 1/4 cup of sugar with 1 Tbsp of agave nectar.
2 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/4 cup turbinado sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp pumpkin pie spice
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1 Tbsp ground flax seed
1 Tbsp natural peanut butter
2 Tbsp margarine
1 Tbsp vegetable oil
1/2 cup molasses
1/2 cup tofu
1 1/2 cups water
oatmeal sprinkled on top
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. While oven is heating, mix together all of the dry ingredients very well.
Blend the tofu and water together. Then add the peanut butter, margarine, and molasses and blend again until smooth.
Once the oven is heated, fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients quickly until everything is just wet. Do not mix until smooth, there should be lumps.*
Scoop and distribute evenly into the muffin tin. Sprinkle oatmeal over the tops of the batter and press gently with the back of a spoon so they'll stick.
The time between the wet ingredients mixing with the dry should be relatively short. Get the batter out of the bowl, into the tin, and into the oven quick as you can. **
Bake for 20-22 minutes. After they're baked, let them sit for two minutes before removing them from the tin and placing them on a cooling rack.
* If the batter is stirred too smooth, the muffins will turn out rubbery and chewy.
** The baking powder begins its chemical reaction immediately once the wet ingredients come into contact with it. If the batter sits out of the oven too long, the baking powder's leavening power runs out and the muffins won't rise much.
Enjoy!
EAT. Knit. Run. Blog.
